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This
cabinet I made from birch and pine. The top, structure and doors are
birch, the sides and shelves are pine. It has a solid top, three doors with glass and altogether 9 drawers. |
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top was glued from 15 mm thick birch lists, with different widths
(typical 43 mm) -
one list per visit to the workshop. So it took about a week's time. Because of
this and the fact that I was able to remove all wet glue, it needed
little sanding. I added a bottom layer of 8 mm
birch along the sides, to give it a better appearance (see
small picture below, right). Wood direction is always the same as in
the top. The feet (and in fact the structure of the whole unit) were cut and made as I had done with the multimedia rack and showcase. It has become a part of my visual signature. It also makes for very solid furniture. However, I failed to cut the feet the exact same lengths, which the little wooden palm tree (below) shows. So, the cabinet ended up a half cm lower than on the sketch. (The raw feet are shown, below.) There is no center feet, so I made the four non-corner posts hang in the top (below, small center). This effectively makes removal of the top difficult, but I hope it won't be necessary. There should be no cracks or twists since I selected the material carefully, and made the top as it's supposed to be. There is no glued structure across, only two lists at the ends, having oblong holes for screws. Now the wood may expand and contract freely. |
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sides are panel lists of different widths, with 2 mm grooves, made on the spot.
They are painted white, but the oil paint was softly removed
with a rag after half an hour. The glass in the doors are 4 mm "satin"
(sandblast on the "outside"). I found a new (to me) way to fasten the
glass. I now push the
glass into the deep groove on the left side, push it inside the frame, and
pull
it back into the shallow right groove (two pictures, above - shown with a thin piece of glass). Before this I put three drops of
silicon on each side, to fasten it and disable noise. So, the glass may
be
changed should it break, provided one picks out the pieces and removes
the little silicon. The inner drawers open already when the doors have opened 90 degrees "straight out". I did this by making a right part in each opening cover more than the width of the doors. This was more complicated than I thought, since the two inner drawers have no visible horisontal wood between them, and I could not interfere with the sliding of the drawers. So I had to make the slider "shelf" solid, so solid that the drawer can in fact open as much as one would want, without breaking the structure. This gave me a dilemma: should the finger hole in the internal drawers be in the center of the drawers or below the center of the external top drawers? How should the asymmetry be shown? I chose the former, so that the handles and the finger holes do not align. The latter would also have been nice. All drawers have 15 mm birch fronts and 8 mm pine sides and back, and 4 mm vineer bottom. The latter in a 4 mm groove. The rear is covered with 4 mm vineer. The top side drawers have shorter depth, so that there is space for a small compartment in the rear. Nice for cables or power supply for a table radio. Nice to not have them on the floor. The cabinet is washed with green soap ("grønnsåpe" in Norwegian) several times, to make it better withstand stains, like those from spilt drops of red wine... Within the hundred year perspective I hope for this unit, that might just happen! The dimensions are 119.5 x 73.5 x 50.5 (WxHxD) cm. Glass dimensions are 48.4 cm height and width 26.0 and 32.0 cm. |
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©2010
- Original design and woodcraft by Øyvind Teig, Trondheim, Norway |
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words in English: cabinet, buffet, pantry, sideboard, cupboard, chest
of drawers, counter |