a daily basis, jewelry is often
stored in a bowl or cup. This little jewelry box takes the consequence
of this: it may store the most precious jewels by themselves - and it
may also store the bowl containing more jewels. Also, the daily jewel
may be picked up from the bowl, residing beside the closed box.
|When Mari and I stopped at a shop in
mountaneous area 200 km south of Trondheim (1), the wooden bowl
caught our attention. Since we knew that a little grandchild was going
to be celebrated a couple of months away, we thought that the bowl (2)
might be an interesting start for a gift. Well home and pondering about
alternatives, the bowl was hard to forget. Its beauty and tranquility
had taken us.
So I suggested to make a wooden box for the bowl. I had these nice 3 x15 mm pine lists that could be used. But, would this be enough for a gift? Well, yes and no. "No", until I realized that I was about to invent a new kind of jewelry case: The Jewelry Box and Bowl!
The above pictures show the finished box without jewelry. However, there is a little wooden toy gyro in the bowl! Observe the final touch - Mari's green embroidery of name and birth year.
four side walls are all 3 mm thick, so they are "single thickness".
However, the bottom is double and the top is triple thickness. The
bottom's hole in the middle makes it singe thickness there.
The same under the fabric in the top: single thickness. The fabric
then, resides in the middle
However, both top and bottom only have the 3 mm single thickness visible on the outside. This makes the box look nice - and solid, since the sides then get glue both at their ends and 3 mm down on the inside.
The sides were glued all in one (left) and glued all 4 walls in the same pressing (also left). This made the sides more accurate.
The box was cut in two for the top and the bottom, with a tilting cut (left). This softens the looks of it.
To make it even more sturdy, the inside walls also carry the feet of the top, and guiding holes from veneer crossing over in the bottom's corners. The same veneer also in the top, but they would will hold the feet instead of guiding them through. This also helps glue the sides (above, right bottom picture).
The bowl and the box were cut so accurately that if one closes the box and shakes the thing, it will not rattle. Perhaps it's half a millimetre air there. No good advice to do this with jewelry, though!
The well in the middle carries the foot of the bowl. I made its sides from 5 x 5 mm lists, glued and guided to a plastic bottle that was easy to cut out afterwards.
Around the well there is velvet, and a keep for next week's jewelry.
Just as the bottom of the well is circular, so is the 3 mm plane beneath the textile in the top (not shown). This way they match.
The textile was bent around a circular plastic from a cheese box (left bottom picture has a paper piece there). This made it easy to push the thing into the top, where it's kept in place by 2 mm wider inner space. And it may be picked out for washing. I did not want glass in the top because it may break, and no plastic because it may get scratches. It must survive me, this box!
The case was painted with green on the details and treated with beeswax on the outside.
It measures some 106 x 106 x 86 mm.
Three other jewelry boxes are here, here and here.
Bought at "Rondane
rast og info AS" in Folldal - The place is a starting place for hikers
to the Rondane mountains, the shop is only a small desk.
(2) The bowl is made by Gro and Svein Becsan at Bjørnstadfjøset. Becsan tells in an SMS that it was treated with Danish oil and that a larger and obstinate piece of rowan wood had ended up as.. yes - this wine cup. (Norwegian: vinbeger i rogn.)
- Original design and woodcraft by Øyvind Teig, Trondheim, Norway
words in Norwegian: Hjemmesnekret smykkeskrin, smykkeeske, smykkeboks,
smykkekube og smykke- bolle,
skål, vinbeger, beger eller kar i rogn med stett.